The stock boost gauge is crap. Usually it is off
by several psi and isn't consistent in it's readings. So, the
solution for accurate pressure monitoring is to install aftermarket
boost gauge. Autometer
has been producing gauges as long as there has been a need for
them. They sell many different versions of their gauges, with
different looks and sizes. I chose Autometer's Phantom series,
a white faced, black beveled 2 1/16" series that looks nice
in the interior of our trucks.
The gauge includes:
- -30 +30psi boost gauge
- small diameter hard vacuum line
- 2 colored light covers
- mounting bracket
- compression fittings
You can buy, and follow the instructions given byRon
G. about his custom NTP fitting.
You need to "T" off of a vacuum line under
the hood to provide the pressure/vacuums reading for the gauge.
The best existing place to "T" is off the vacuum line
in the front of the motor, under the forward side of the throttle
body. T'ing off the MAP sensor/FPR could cause delayed readings
to the MAP or FPR and has potential to cause problems. There are
two vacuum lines in this cramped space. One goes to the evaporation
canister, and the other, I believe operates the climate control
vent doors. This is the one we want to T off of.
I used what I could find at the parts store: a universal T.
The problem finding an adapter is you need a T that tapers down
to the size of the hard line included with the gauge. The only
thing available at autozone that would fit was this huge universal
fitting T. We purchases a little extra Vacuum hose to connect
the t to the fitting and some smaller line to connect the T
to the hard line. We put the T between the point where the vacuum
line was connected before, and the vacuum line that was connected
to the fitting. The smaller end linked up to the smaller Vacuum
line and ran to the Hard line. Inserted the hard line a good
distance into the vacuum hose, and zip tied it tight.
The hard line was routed along the drivers side of the motor
towards the brake booster and into the grommet located on the
side of it. It was then routed along the underside of the dash,
and out toward the crack between the left side of the dash and
the body. From there, the hard line goes up toward the A-pillar
and to the gauge. Make sure to measure this length before you
cut the vacuum line for your T. The vacuum line is inserted
into the compression fitting into the rear of the gauge and
threaded in using PPT.
To wire the gauge's lights, you need to connect the power to
the dimmer slot on the fuse box and connect the ground to ground
using a variety of bolts under the dash. Below is a cramped
picture of the fuse box. Crimp a flat inserting type connector
onto the end of the positive feed for the gauge, and insert
into the spot pictured below (blue round connector next to large
red & green connectors)
once you have the power, vacuum and ground lines connected
up, you should be good to go. Have fun testing ;)
|user contributed notes