and parts you will need: |
- Razor Knife
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 24 inch 3/8" extension
- 14mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 8mm socket
- 10mm wrench
- Drill and 3/8" bit
tool with grinding bit
15 feet 3/4" heater hose
2. 2 - 90 degree female thread
3. 3 - straight barbed hose connectors
4. 3 - 90 degree barbed elbows
5. 1 - Piece
6. 12 hose clamps
8. Shurflo 2088-403-444 pump
2 - big clamps
Expect approximately 3 - 5 hours of install time
April 1, 2001|
Car: 1992 GMC Typhoon
This modification will upgrade your intercooler pump and get rid of the metal
I/C lines from under the hood. The stock I/C pump is inefficient and most
of the time fails after the years, so replacing it with a newer pump that flows
more is beneficial. The stock metal I/C lines run right on top of the engine and
intake, soaking up as much heat as possible. This is a bad thing and replacing
them with rubber heater hose and rerouting them away from heat is a good idea.
Plus, if you need to remove the intercooler for some reason it's a lot easier.
There are different types of pumps out there that can be used. We used a Shurflo
in this install but there are others that will work.
Before you start into
this install, be sure you know how to use all of your shop equipment. Take
your time and be careful. You are modifying your intercooling system and
it should be done with care. If you're not comfortable with this procedure then
have someone else perform it for you.
the water from the intercooler via the petcock on the lower left corner of the
2. Open the hood of your
truck and look in the front left of the engine compartment. Locate the Intercooler.
Remove the 3 - 15mm bolts that mount it with the 24" 3/8th's extension, swivel
adapter and 15mm socket. The bolts are under the intercooler about where the arrows
are pointing. (see the blue arrows in Figure
2). Loosen the clamps on the I/C to Throttle Body hose, and loosen the
clamps on the turbo to I/C hose. Remove the intercooler.
3. Remove the rubber
hoses from the metal lines at the back of the Intercooler.
4. Remove the rubber
hose from the other end of the metal lines. (see the blue
arrows in Figure 4). Remove the 10mm nut and bolt that hold the
metal line in. (see the red arrow in Figure 4).
5. Remove the 10mm bolt that
is hidden on the MAP sensor bracket. (see the blue
arrow in Figure 5)
6. Remove the 14mm
bolt from the intake. (see the blue arrow in Figure 6)
7. Remove the lines.
It can be done. It will take some time and patience but they come out in one piece.
8. There are 4 15mm bolts that hold the heat exchanger
in place. Remove them, disconnect the pump connector and the low I/C coolant level
sensor wire. You should have something like Figure 8a
Figure 8b - closer view of pump
9. Remove the pump
from the heat exchanger. We kept the new Shurflo pump held in place with hose
clamps, so you'll have to drill 2 - 3/8" size holes in the bracket (place
a piece of wood behind the bracket so you don't damage the exchanger by accident.)
(see the blue arrow in Figure 9) Then notch the upper part of the bracket so the
hose clamps have something to sit into. (see the other blue arrow in Figure 6)
10. Install the plastic
90's onto the pump, use some Teflon tape to help it seal, and point them toward
the passenger side of the truck. Cut the piece of rubber so that it covers
the pump, this will help quite it down, open the clamps up all the way and fish
them through the drilled hole and inside the notches in the bracket.
If still in OK condition, you can reuse the original rubber 90' hoses from the
intercooler and heat exchanger. Refer to figure 10a and 10b
for installation of the hoses. Cut the original pump connector off and reuse
it for the new pump, red to brown and black to black.
11. Route the hose's between the
frame an body and then into the fender. We had to connect 2 pieces of hose
together since we couldn't get a continuous length of hose long enough.
Figure 11 shows the hose routed through the fender.
12. Here's the hose coming
from the fender and to the Intercooler. (See figure 12)
13. Use a plastic 90 and a small
piece of hose to connect the hose to the Intercooler.
14. The finished product should
look something like Figure 14. We choose to go over
the A/C and not under it so that in the event that the Intercooler has to come
off again it can be easily placed out of the way.
Comments: This job
can be a lot of work, but with good planning and all the parts it can be made
simple. Replacing the I/C pump and lines is one of the most important upgrades
you can do for a SyTy, as it will drop intake temps dramatically.
|user contributed notes