Idler Arm Home > How To's > Idler Arm Idler Arm
This article is now being maintained on HowTune.com: Replacing an Idler Arm on a GMC Syclone and other S-Series Trucks
Anywho.. on to the idler arm.
You can see the difference between the Improved Moog unit (left) and the stocker (right).
Step 1 : Jack up the front of the truck and place
on jack stands. You'll need enough room to get your fat butt under
Step 2 : Remove the cauter pin and nut from the Idler arm bolt where it goes through the steering linkage [see picture].
Step 3 : Next are the 2 bolts that connect the idler arm to the frame. You'll need a 2 sockets/wrenches. One goes onto the bolt head (accessible through the fender well, they are inside 2 holes in the frame) [see picture]. The other will be used on the nut side of the bolt which is above the front sway bar near the exhaust crossover tube [see picture]. Remove the nuts, being very carefull not to loose the bolts inside the frame, I don't know if you'll ever see them again.
Step 4 : You can push the idler arm off the bolts, and out of the steering linkage. Take the whole thing out, and toss it in the street.
Step 5 : Screw all the grease fittings into the new idler arm. The angled one goes on the thicker section, while the strait one goes into the section that joins to the steering linkage. If you didn't get a 90 degree fitting, go buy one, its required if you ever want to grease the idler arm properly
Step 6 : You can grease it now or later, its easier now, but you'll keep grease off your hands if you do it later.
Step 7 : Bolt up the frame bolts and then the steering linkage bolt, making sure to place the small spongy O-ring between the steering linkage and the idler arm. Line up the slots in the bolt with the hole in the idler arm so you can put the pin back through.
Step 8 : Go get an alignment. It will be shot. Mine had noticeable vibration and tire wear within 2 days.
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