The biggest pain in the ass on these trucks.. The ignition. We've been handed
a wonderful distributor design. It wears down quickly, while our trucks demand
perfect operation from it. If your truck is knocking, its time to think about
wires, cap/rotar, and plugs. Its nearly pointless to do just one, as its possible
to damage another part in the process.
You have several choices when it
comes to parts, these are proven, and used by many sy ty owners. These are not
the only available on the market, just the most likely to work well in our application.
Cap & Rotar:
(red) available at autozone (regular s-15 part, they have syclone in computer
Accel Extreme 9000
ATR Black Beauties
KB Red Hots
ACDelco CR42TS ONLY!!!!!!!!!!
GM (stock unit has proved to be the most reliable, aftermarkets
may cause problems)
simple, however it can take some time.The ONLY way to get to the plug is through
the fender wells. Some people use the flap on the lower side of the fender well,
some remove the wheel, and the fenderwell to get easy access to the plugs. I remove
the wheels, because I figure I'm already down here, I might as well clean the
beast up and inspect everything else while I'm digging around.
1: Jack up the front of the truck, placing it on Jack stands. Remove
each wheel and remove the fender wells.
You should have a great view of the
engine now that the fender wells are out. There are, of course, 6 cylinders, 3
plugs/wires on each side.
Here's a little diagram to keep things
The cylinders are numbered
from side to side of the motor so that # 1 is in the front on the drivers side,
#2 is on the passenger side in the front and so on. The driver's side of the block
has #1, #3, and #5 while the passanger side has #2, #4, and #6.
start be removing one wire at a time so that I know where they connected to the
distributor. But I finally decided it might be easier to do a little diagram.
is an Autozone Conrad cap that I numbered before installing. It makes it much
easier to understand where your wires are going. The center "crossed out
zero" is the Coil wire and the numbers correspond with the cylinder number
they belong to.
Now that we have this information we can pretty much just
remove the entire ignition setup without worrying about screwing things up. Step
2: Pull the wires out, you may have to clip some zip ties or wire looms
to free the wires.
Step 3:Remove the plugs
using a 5/8 wobble ended spark plug socket. You'll know why you need the wobble
ended socket when you try to remove #3.
While your here it's a good idea to
Read the plugs in order to help diagnose problems.
4: Reinstall your new CR42TS plugs to keep things from flying into
your precious cylinders.
Gap the plugs at the stock setting (it is on one
of the emission stickers under the hood) at .35.
You can use Anti-Sieze on
the threads of the plugs to make them easy to remove next time.
5: Remove the distributor Cap and Rotar.
The cap has 2 screws,
one on either side. I have to scoot up and lay on the motor in order to reach
it. (watch not to push on the fan shroud)
After it's unscrewed, just pull
it strait out and discard.
The rotar can be a little difficult to remove,
especially the stock unit. I had to use a large prying screw driver to break the
rotar inorder to get it off the first time. Yank upward as hard as you can, and
if that doesn't work, begin trying to pry or break it off
6: Replace the new rotar (it only goes on in one direction, see the
little tab inside the rotar) by pushing it on as hard as you can until it is seated
all the way down.
Step 7: Replace the
new cap over the distributor and screw down tightly. Again, there is only one
way for it to go on, and it should not wiggle at all when installed.
8: Next route the new wires in.
Typically there are different
angled wire boots in each of the cylinders:
#1: straight boot
#2: 90 boot
#3 90 boot
#4 90 boot
#5 90 boot
#6 45 boot
Place the boot
on the distributor cap, and run the wire down towards the plug, keeping it as
far away from heat and moving parts as possible. The manifolds or down pipe can
melt right through the wires. Some people use wire heat shielding, which is a
fantastic idea to keep your wires lasting longer.
Hook the other end to the
spark plug after putting dielectric grease into the boot.
Then, trace back
the wire and zip tie it into the wire looms or wherever you find necessary, just
keep in mind not to zip tie it without slack to parts that do not torque over
with the engine.
After everything is back in and secured, remove everything
you have sitting in the engine bay and start her up.
It should start just
like it normally does, if it seems to have a harder time idling then before, something
is not correct. Double check the wire connections on the distributor and plugs.You
may have a bad plug or maybe the rotar didn't sit all the way down or the cap
isn't seated correctly.
|user contributed notes