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"Changing the Fuel Pump on Jochen Kraus Typhoon"

Since I own a Syclone, I first had to get a hold of a Ty, and Jochen Kraus spontaneously volunteered.
So lets get to it:

Drive until the tank is almost empty (on jochens ty, when the needle sits on the lower pin, there are some 5 liters left in the tank). Dont think about getting to it with too much fuel in the tank, especially when assmbling (WAY too heavy)!!

First of all you need to get the car up as high as possible (to be able to stand almost upright under it). I wouldnt recommend to try it with a jack and some stands alone, robbing around under the whole thing.
Then you have to remove the plastic cover that protects the tank; dont be afraid to hold this alone, its really light, but it may hold a lot of debris, so be prepared!

The tank is held in place by two brackets on the underside, attached by 2 bolts, respectively, which have nuts on their other end which are not fastened to the frame, so you will have to have another wrench to counteract.

If you remove them, be prepared to support the tank, as it will only be suspended by the fuel hoses and electrical connections by now.

From the rear of the truck, lower the right side of the tank enough to get access to the hoses: the 2 main fuel lines with brake-line-like fittings, the filler vent tube (secured with a hose clamp) and the fuel vapor hose which is just pushed over the corresponding tube.

Disconnect the electrical onnections (1 connector and 1 ground cable to the frame, attached by a bolt to keep up the fun)

If you want to re-use this pump, be sure to carefully counteract the torque when disconnecting the fuel lines since the tubes coming from the pump will likely be rusted and thereby weak and may be easily kinked or broken by the torque.

Theres one more hose clamp which secures the filler hose. Loosen it (of course).

Now you can get the tank out.

To remove the fuel pump assembly, you will have to remove the locking ring either with a special tool or with a screwdriver and a light hammer. Set the blade of the screwdriver to the tabs of the locking ring and give it a few taps (counterclockwise), one after another (there are 3 tabs).

The ATR pump, for example, comes with a new o-ring, but if you want to be really picky, be sure to get a new locking ring, too. The old one will be quite corroded, eventually beyond reusability.

Drop the pump in and secure it with the locking ring. Drown everything under a wax coat.

Take a break and have a drink, now comes the best part. Make sure to have a helper who isnt at all offended by heavy swearing and rude language. Take a deep breath.

Go and put the tank back in: For this, I recommend to remove the nut at the back of the left of the two straps that hold the tank at the upper side and put the threaded end out so you can move the strap around a little. Theres almost no other way to
1) get the hoses to their fittings
2) have enough space down there to see and work

Start with the screw-on fittings, then reattach the other 2 and tighten the hose clamp. Push the filler tube onto its pipe. You can fasten the clamp after the tank sits in place.

Theres VERY little space and you will probably have to use a little force on the hoses (A LITTLE!).Dont forget the electrical connections.

Get your friendly helper to hold the tank up and try to fumble the threaded end of the strap back into its hole again. No recommendations here, its just a plain F...... job.

Put the nut on the strap bolt but do not tighten. Reattach the brackets, tighten the bolts, then tighten the strap (you can use the nut of the other strap as a reference for the tightening torque).

Plastic cover back on and youre done!

Usually, Im quite self-concious with my work and the recommendations I give, but maybe someone out there has already done it, too, and knows a less painful procedure. Also, if someone has the story for changing the Syclone pump, go ahead and mail it to me.

Greetings
>Peter
Sy #2032
Vienna, Austria
Dentist

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