The sound of air whistling in the cab at highway speeds finally became a big
enough irritant to get me to do something about it (A sign that the truck is
finally running pretty good, otherwise!). I ordered a replacement window seal
from JC Whitney, catalog item number 07LW5846U for the driver's side seal, at
a cost of $39.95
Tools you'll need:
- Door panel remover tool (or long flathead screwdriver)
- 10mm ratchet
Start with the window down just above the half way point. This should allow
access to the bottom window guide later on without futher adjustment.
First step is to remove the plastic trim panel at the top trailing edge of
the door, secured with 3 screws.
Next remove the 2 screws that secure the arm rest.
Now you're ready to remove the door panel. I used a long flathead screwdriver
to gain access behind the panel, then a door panel removal tool to pop the plastic
panel rivets from their mounts. There are a total of 8 plastic rivets.
Location of the 8 panel rivets.
With all the plastic rivets separated, you must next separate the electrical
connector to the power window switches to free the panel. I used a plastic (non-conducting)
wedge to separate the two sides of the connector without damaging them.
The panel can now be removed by lifting it up off the top hinge of the door.
Next remove the inner panel soundproofing foam by removing the 2 10mm bolts
on the arm rest, along with 2 additional plastic pop rivets and outer edge adhesive.
Now remove the trim along the top window opening. It's held on with 5 metal
tabs, which will release when pulled toward the inside of the door and then
up. I have aftermarket rear view mirrors on my truck, and found that I had to
loosen the bottom bolt to slip out the trim from underneath the mirror molding.
Not sure if this is necessary on the stock "elephant ears". Be careful
not to bend the trim excessively during removal. It's metal and creases may
Removing the old window seal begins with removing the screws that secure the
2 seal brackets in place to the door. There are 2 screws in the bracket at the
trailing edge of the door, and just a single screw on the leading edge bracket.
bracket screw removal.
The window has to be lowered to remove the old seal and to reinstall the new
one. Remove the 2 10mm bolts that secure the bottom plastic window guide, holding
the window up to prevent it from crashing down after the second bolt is removed.
The plastic guide will now separate from the metal bracket behind it and can
be removed. Lower the window down as far as it will go - There's a 2 inch riser
that will prevent the window from going all the way to the bottom of the inner
door - That's ok.
Bottom window guide
removal, securing the glass with other hand.
With the window lowered and resting within the door, you can now start pulling
out the old window seal. Start at the top trailing edge at the formed 90 degree
corner - It has the most rubber "meat" to get a grip on and start
yanking the top out. Then pull up on the trailing and leading edges until they
clear the window channels.
Old seal on
top, with brackets still inside.
With the old seal removed, you may now remove the 2 metal brackets by straightening
the tabs that secure it to the seal.
from seal, revealing retainer tabs and scew mount.
Install the old guides into the new window seal, aligning the scew mounts with
the openings in the seal. Use the awl to start a hole for each of the retaining
tabs, then press the tabs into the seal and bend them over to secure the brackets
to the seal.
Install the new seal into the door channels, bolt the bottom window guide back
on, and reassemble the remainder of the door. You may have to use some duct
tape or similar to reseal the foam soundproofing if the adhesive is no longer
sealing. Apply some dielectric grease to the power window connector if available.
Enjoy the quite ride!
Rob Turgeon (firstname.lastname@example.org)
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