Tools and parts you will need:
- Tube bender
- Double Flare tool
- Tube Cutter
- 9/16" wrench
- 1/2" socket
- Small piece of 1/4" steel brake line
- 2 - 1/4" compression nuts
- 1 - 1/4" T-fitting
- Bottle of Dot 3 brake fluid
Expect approximately 2 - 3 hours of uninstall time
- Date: February 19 2001
- Car: 1992 GMC Typhoon
- Uninstallers: Keith and Jordan
- Email: [email protected]
Purpose: This "modification" will remove the ABS unit from your
truck. This will get rid of unwanted weight and stop that pesky ABS light
from coming on.
Preface: This procedure will remove your ABS
and will affect your wet stopping ability. You probably will not notice a difference
on dry pavement. Most people remove the ABS 1) to clean up the engine
compartment and 2) because they're interested in drag racing and don't drive the
truck much around town.
this modification at your own risk! Be aware that lawyers will be very interested
in how you went out of your way to disable a safety system on your vehicle if
you are ever involved in an accident! Nuff said - We're all adults, and as such,
we take responsibility for our own actions, right?
Before you start into
this uninstall, be sure you know how to use all of your shop equipment.
Take your time and be careful. You are modifying your braking system and
it should be done with care. If you're not comfortable with this procedure then
have someone else perform it for you.
the hood of your truck and look in the front Right of the engine compartment.
Locate the ABS Unit. Remove the 3- 1/2" bolts that mount it.
Cut or remove the brake lines from the ABS Unit. We only used tin snips
in this area since a perfect cut wasn't necessary.
You can see that the engine compartment is already looking more empty. This Typhoon
also has the cruise control removed for extra cleanliness.
The front brake lines (see the <FONT COLOR=#ff0000>red</FONT> arrows)
have to be joined. The rear line (see the <FONT COLOR=#0000ff>blue
</FONT>arrow ) just needs to be rerouted.
Cut the rear line, slide on the nut, then double flare the lines with your flaring
tool. Then join the two front lines with a 1/4" Tee.
Connecting the Front lines: Using the new brake line you purchased, measure
and cut it to a length that you think will make it to the combination valve, then
bend it to the best fit. Keep the nut on one end and either reuse the original
nut or put a new one the line and double flare it.
Connecting the Rear brake
line: Cut the original line down enough that it will go right in to
the combination valve. Put the original nut on the line and double flare it and
screw it in to the combination valve.
After you're all done it should look something like this.
Comments: You will have to bleed the brakes when you are finished with the removal. Refer to your service manual on the proper way to bleed them.