Installing Power Typhoon mirror controller on a syclone

GM Part numbers

15693875 Mirror
15693876 Mirror
15990940 Mirror Screws (6 req'd - sy stock are too short)
15631464 Mirror Switch
12080237 Wiring Harness
12085536 Wiring Pigtails (2 req'd)
12101827 Harness Pigtails

Optional needs ( to retain the stock connectors):
The female connectors for each mirror at the door, and the controller.
And a typhoon/sonoma gt gauge housing (the dash portion that holds the hvac and light control panels) - ty's have a hole on the right side.

Wiring description:
Each mirror has 4 wires and a 4 wire male connector coming from the motors.

Driver side has White, Green, Yellow, and Blue wires.
White(+) and Blue(-) control Left/Right movement
Yellow(+) and Green(-) control Up/Down movement

Passenger side has White/Black, Green/Black, Yellow/Black, Blue/Black wires.
White/Black(+) and Blue/Black(-) control Left/Right movement
Yellow/Black(+) and Green/Black(-) control Up/Down movement

Between the mirrors and the controller, the grounds are combined on each side.
Driver's side combines Blue and Green into one Blue wire
Passenger side combines Blue/Black and Green/Black into one Blue/Black wire

Going into the controller harness are the following 8 wires:

Orange, Power
Black, Ground

Yellow, (Drivers U/D(+))
White, (Drivers L/R(+))
Blue, (Drivers ground(-))

Yellow/Black, (Passenger U/D(+))
White/Black, (Passenger L/R(+))
Blue/Black, (Passenger ground(-))

Installation:
First thing i started with was soldering the mirror connectors to the extra wire needed to reach into the dash.
So with each connector, I soldered the blue and green wires together into one blue wire.
The other two were soldered to their own extension leaving me with 3 wires from each mirror going to the dash.

I'd say the wires ended up being about 5-6 feet long, It wouldn't be a bad idea to cut them a little longer just in case.
You can judge length by holding them up where you think they'll go.

Installation of the wires should start at the door and go toward it's destination.

Remove the Door panel.
There are 2 phillips screws in the door handle holding the arm rest on, it will come out by sliding toward the rear of the door.
Next step is to separate the numerous push in fasteners by pulling at the door panel. I start at one of the bottom corners and pull away from the door.
After they are all loose, pull outward and upward on the panel, once the panel releases from the window seal, pull the window/lock controls off and place the panel aside.

Next, disassemble the bottom of the driver's side of the dash, remove the kick panel, fuse cover panel, and the brake/gas pedal panel.
Remove the screws(the ones you can get to) from the black plastic piece on the outer foot well. This panel seals a hole that will allow you access to the wires/grommets going to the doors.

Now the aim is to get the non connector end of the wires through the door grommet, and into the interior.
I used a hanger: unbend a metal hanger, create a small loop on one end, and insert it carefully through the grommet you need to get through, then thread your wires into the loop in the hanger, and pull the bunch back through the grommet.
Of course, you have to be careful and take your time to not damage the wires/rubber in the process.

There is a second grommet that most of the wires enter to get through the inner wall, however I couldn't manage to fit any extra wires through it, so I just ran them into the black panel that we half way removed to access the door's grommets.
Now the wires are inside the truck, pull until the connector has enough slack for you to plug/unplug the mirror's connector.

Next step is to get into the dash housing.
Remove the dash panel under the steering column:
Remove the aldl connector's 2 screws.
Remove the bolts on the bottom, screws on the front, and the screw holding on the e-brake handle.
You should be able to swing it out of the way w/o removing the cable.

Next, the gauge cluster housing, remove the 2 screws holding the fog light control on, then the three hiding under that.
The light control panel will now be loose enough to pull out, slide down and out of the dash. The light control has 2 connectors, remove and set aside the panel.

Now remove the hvac controls, there are 2 screws holding this on just as the light controls were held on. Slide down and out.

Welcome to your own personal hell, this is the worst part of the job. There are 3 connectors on the hvac panel along with a vacuum harness and a pull cable for the vent doors.
The thing wont move but what seems like 2 inches out of the dash, begin with a screwdriver to remove the connectors you can get to.
Once the connectors are off, the cable pull is next, there is a flat metal push on retaining washer on the cable's post. try using pliers or a screw driver to back this off the post. Once its off, there is a red plastic piece that is held in by a metal clip, slide a screwdriver into this from the opposite side to release.
Now for the vacuum lines, the harness is held on using two of the same retainer washers that were on the cable, one on each side. get these off and carefully pry the spongy rubber away, side to side, until your free. I had to keep pulling and pulling to the point that I was sure that I was going to damage the vacuum hoses in order to get the panel out far enough to detach the parts. Turns out, an afterthought, that the other end of these vacuum lines are easily accessible under the dash. I don't have pics yet, but you can see the connection in this diagram.

Last is 2 screws, the top inside the control panel holes in the back of the dash. Unscrew and remove the gauge housing.

To help in routing the wires, I removed the gauges, its 2 screws on the bottom corners and the two nuts on the top. Carefully pry the housing away from the top studs and it will come right out, make sure to wedge between the white plastic and the metal brackets to keep from damaging anything.

Now route your mirror harness behind the cluster where the other wires are, around, and into the hole for the hvac controls. Your done with that door, cut the wires with a little extra length.

Passenger side, remove the door panel in the same manner as the driver's side. Remove the kick panel, under dash trim, radio bezel, and loosen/remove the radio. Use the same trick to get the wires through the door grommet, this side has a vacuum controlled vent for the hvac controls, it well bend enough for you to wrestle the wires through.
Same treatment on this side, Remove the screws you can get to on the black plastic sealer/hvac door. Reach around and pull the wires through, routing them upward.

Route the wires up and loop them into the dash as much as possible. Having the radio out will help you thread the wires through the back of the radio cavity of the dash and up into the hvac control hole.

Now both doors wires are in the right place. Crimp the wires here to the connector for the controller. The striped wires control the passenger mirror, and non striped control the drivers side.

Connect the blue, yellow, and white wires for each mirror to the connector. Connect a long ground and power to the orange and black wires respectively. The ground can be run with a o ring crimp connector to one of the steering column bolts. This ground seems to work well without even sanding the finish.
The power will have to be run under the dash and to the fuse box. Connect a male blade connector to the end, and insert into the acc or ign port (these will only power with key on). It would be a good idea to put a inline fuse between this power and the controller.

Connect the controller switch and turn the ignition to on (not start). You should be able to test the mirrors and direction of movement at the same time. If everything looks good, you can begin putting all the crap you just removed back into your truck.
The hvac controls again are the only point worth mentioning. I connected all the connectors, and the cable, re installing the retaining clip, before attaching the vacuum connection. The advantage to the hole needed for the motor control comes in here, you can stick a finger in there to help push the vacuum connector onto the posts.(of course this isn't an issue if you disconnected the other end to get the slack needed to remove them).