Installing Power Typhoon mirror controller on a syclone
I bought the mirrors, found the mirror controls in a junk blazer, and decided
to install everything when I found the wiring diagram. To make the install easy,
get all the female connectors for both mirrors in the doors, the controller,
and the female section that plugs into the controller.
Here's the one problem, the control motor requires a hole and 2 screw mounts
under the hvac controls just like the fog light switch mount. Ty and so-gt gauge
housing will have this. You can either choose to buy one, cut the hole, or mount
the controller elsewhere. I had an extra ty housing, so things worked out well.
What you need:
Dash mounted motor controller
2 power mirrors (and specific screw set)
Crimp connectors (male/female, crimp couplers, and grounding rings)
Soldering iron/solder (for good wire connections)
Heat shrink tubing (best way to cover soldered connections)
Different color wire, blue, green, white, black, orange/red
GM Part numbers
15990940 Mirror Screws (6 req'd - sy stock are too short)
15631464 Mirror Switch
12080237 Wiring Harness
12085536 Wiring Pigtails (2 req'd)
12101827 Harness Pigtails
Optional needs ( to retain the stock connectors):
The female connectors for each mirror at the door, and the controller.
And a typhoon/sonoma gt gauge housing (the dash portion that holds the hvac
and light control panels) - ty's have a hole on the right side.
Each mirror has 4 wires and a 4 wire male connector coming from the motors.
Driver side has White, Green, Yellow, and Blue wires.
White(+) and Blue(-) control Left/Right movement
Yellow(+) and Green(-) control Up/Down movement
Passenger side has White/Black, Green/Black, Yellow/Black, Blue/Black wires.
White/Black(+) and Blue/Black(-) control Left/Right movement
Yellow/Black(+) and Green/Black(-) control Up/Down movement
Between the mirrors and the controller, the grounds are combined on each side.
Driver's side combines Blue and Green into one Blue wire
Passenger side combines Blue/Black and Green/Black into one Blue/Black wire
Going into the controller harness are the following 8 wires:
Yellow, (Drivers U/D(+))
White, (Drivers L/R(+))
Blue, (Drivers ground(-))
Yellow/Black, (Passenger U/D(+))
White/Black, (Passenger L/R(+))
Blue/Black, (Passenger ground(-))
First thing i started with was soldering the mirror connectors to the extra
wire needed to reach into the dash.
So with each connector, I soldered the blue and green wires together into one
The other two were soldered to their own extension leaving me with 3 wires from
each mirror going to the dash.
I'd say the wires ended up being about 5-6 feet long, It wouldn't be a bad idea
to cut them a little longer just in case.
You can judge length by holding them up where you think they'll go.
Installation of the wires should start at the door and go toward it's destination.
Remove the Door panel.
There are 2 phillips screws in the door handle holding the arm rest on, it will
come out by sliding toward the rear of the door.
Next step is to separate the numerous push in fasteners by pulling at the door
panel. I start at one of the bottom corners and pull away from the door.
After they are all loose, pull outward and upward on the panel, once the panel
releases from the window seal, pull the window/lock controls off and place the
Next, disassemble the bottom of the driver's side of the dash, remove the kick
panel, fuse cover panel, and the brake/gas pedal panel.
Remove the screws(the ones you can get to) from the black plastic piece on the
outer foot well. This panel seals a hole that will allow you access to the wires/grommets
going to the doors.
Now the aim is to get the non connector end of the wires through the door grommet,
and into the interior.
I used a hanger: unbend a metal hanger, create a small loop on one end, and
insert it carefully through the grommet you need to get through, then thread
your wires into the loop in the hanger, and pull the bunch back through the
Of course, you have to be careful and take your time to not damage the wires/rubber
in the process.
There is a second grommet that most of the wires enter to get through the inner
wall, however I couldn't manage to fit any extra wires through it, so I just
ran them into the black panel that we half way removed to access the door's
Now the wires are inside the truck, pull until the connector has enough slack
for you to plug/unplug the mirror's connector.
Next step is to get into the dash housing.
Remove the dash panel under the steering column:
Remove the aldl connector's 2 screws.
Remove the bolts on the bottom, screws on the front, and the screw holding on
the e-brake handle.
You should be able to swing it out of the way w/o removing the cable.
Next, the gauge cluster housing, remove the 2 screws holding the fog light
control on, then the three hiding under that.
The light control panel will now be loose enough to pull out, slide down and
out of the dash. The light control has 2 connectors, remove and set aside the
Now remove the hvac controls, there are 2 screws holding this on just as the
light controls were held on. Slide down and out.
Welcome to your own personal hell, this is the worst part of the job. There
are 3 connectors on the hvac panel along with a vacuum harness and a pull cable
for the vent doors.
The thing wont move but what seems like 2 inches out of the dash, begin with
a screwdriver to remove the connectors you can get to.
Once the connectors are off, the cable pull is next, there is a flat metal push
on retaining washer on the cable's post. try using pliers or a screw driver
to back this off the post. Once its off, there is a red plastic piece that is
held in by a metal clip, slide a screwdriver into this from the opposite side
Now for the vacuum lines, the harness is held on using two of the same retainer
washers that were on the cable, one on each side. get these off and carefully
pry the spongy rubber away, side to side, until your free. I had to keep pulling
and pulling to the point that I was sure that I was going to damage the vacuum
hoses in order to get the panel out far enough to detach the parts. Turns out,
an afterthought, that the other end of these vacuum lines are easily accessible
under the dash. I don't have pics yet, but you can see the connection in this
Last is 2 screws, the top inside the control panel holes in the back of the
dash. Unscrew and remove the gauge housing.
To help in routing the wires, I removed the gauges, its 2 screws on the bottom
corners and the two nuts on the top. Carefully pry the housing away from the
top studs and it will come right out, make sure to wedge between the white plastic
and the metal brackets to keep from damaging anything.
Now route your mirror harness behind the cluster where the other wires are,
around, and into the hole for the hvac controls. Your done with that door, cut
the wires with a little extra length.
Passenger side, remove the door panel in the same manner as the driver's side.
Remove the kick panel, under dash trim, radio bezel, and loosen/remove the radio.
Use the same trick to get the wires through the door grommet, this side has
a vacuum controlled vent for the hvac controls, it well bend enough for you
to wrestle the wires through.
Same treatment on this side, Remove the screws you can get to on the black plastic
sealer/hvac door. Reach around and pull the wires through, routing them upward.
Route the wires up and loop them into the dash as much as possible. Having the
radio out will help you thread the wires through the back of the radio cavity
of the dash and up into the hvac control hole.
Now both doors wires are in the right place. Crimp the wires here to the connector
for the controller. The striped wires control the passenger mirror, and non
striped control the drivers side.
Connect the blue, yellow, and white wires for each mirror to the connector.
Connect a long ground and power to the orange and black wires respectively.
The ground can be run with a o ring crimp connector to one of the steering column
bolts. This ground seems to work well without even sanding the finish.
The power will have to be run under the dash and to the fuse box. Connect a
male blade connector to the end, and insert into the acc or ign port (these
will only power with key on). It would be a good idea to put a inline fuse between
this power and the controller.
Connect the controller switch and turn the ignition to on (not start). You should
be able to test the mirrors and direction of movement at the same time. If everything
looks good, you can begin putting all the crap you just removed back into your
The hvac controls again are the only point worth mentioning. I connected all
the connectors, and the cable, re installing the retaining clip, before attaching
the vacuum connection. The advantage to the hole needed for the motor control
comes in here, you can stick a finger in there to help push the vacuum connector
onto the posts.(of course this isn't an issue if you disconnected the other
end to get the slack needed to remove them).